Magazine


THE DINNER DETECTIVE: Persia

by The Dinner Detective
31/ 3/2005

IF it's not your idea of fun to have a belly dancer wind her way around your table while you tuck into your starter then Persia may not be the place for you.

But it is the place for many people, young and old, hippies and managers, belly dancing fans and those whose bellies have seen better days - they were all dining at Persia when I visited. And a jolly good time they were having too.

Indeed, when you arrive you are invited to wait in the casual seating area - where it's all Persian rugs and antique trunks - and it really is cosy (particularly if you ignore the bright lights and concentrate on the flickering candles on the table).

So when you're taking to your seat you expect a similar comfortable experience but if you're taller than 5' 3" you sit with your knees under your chin because the chairs are like those in a children's library. I kicked off my heels and fitted like any child absorbed in a book.

So, what of the food, the service and the unexpected entertainment? Well, the service was fine; quick, friendly and efficient. The entertainment, although a bit of a shock, was fun. A young woman draped in sheer fabric and a few tassles with bells, draped herself around the men in the room and even a few women. I found snarling kept her at bay.

But sadly I found the food a bit of a let down. I could buy into the atmosphere and forgive the Club 18-30 feel of the place but I expected the food to be something special. I had heard good things and this restaurant certainly gives off an air of knowing what it's doing. But as soon as I had my first mouthful of blandly stuffed vine leaves (£4.95) I feared things may not get better. My dining partner, however, thoroughly enjoyed the coriander and sweet chilli king prawns with salad (£5.25) and couldn't understand my disappointment.

With this is mind I chose the Thai prawn skewers with Persia rice and sweet chilli sauce (£10.95) but again I found the sauce too sweet while my dining partner decided to venture further across the globe and ordered Oriental duck breast with soy sauce and noodles (£12.95) which was succulent and tasty.

One thing I can say is that the portions are so hefty as to make dessert seem gluttonous. But I'm not one to let the readers down so ploughed on and ordered Eli's vanilla cheesecake with berries and crème fraiche (£4.95) and my dining partner had the Oreo cookie cake with vanilla ice cream. We tucked in silently, looking up only occasionally to share an approving smile.

So, dessert aside, I found the food a little dull; maybe I expected too much, maybe I went on a bad night but everyone else I have asked has had a rare old time and enjoyed the food at Persia. My dining partner's only concern was the silly seats.


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