Browse Sections
Interactive
Popular Sections
Partly sunnyMagazine
From behind the wall to top of world
Paul R Taylor29/ 9/2006
HIDDEN away deep in the kitchens of the Lowry Hotel is the best chef in the land.
The name Eyck Zimmer might not be as familiar as Gordon Ramsey
or Marco Pierre White but in culinary circles his genius and
flawless technique is now without question.
The East German-born head chef won the National Chef of the Year
2006 title after a gruelling three-day competition at the
Restaurant Show at London's Olympia last week.
In the final he prepared a three-course meal for four people in
three hours using a box of mystery ingredients, which contained
duck, veal fillet, veal kidney, scallops and oysters.
The biennial competition is one of the most respected culinary
challenges in the industry today. The victory means Eyck has now
completed the "grand slam", adding this title to the prestigious
Prix Culinairé International Pierre Taittinger and the Meilleur
Ouvrier de Grande Bretagne (MOGB) by the Academy of Culinary
Arts.
The 36-year-old, who announced he was retiring from competitions
before the finals, says: "This is an amazing win for me and a
fitting way to step down from the competition arena.
"Knowing it was my last shot gave me the extra push I needed and I
think that's what got me the result. I was astounded when they said
my name and became very emotional at that point.
"I've won the big three now, the grand slam if you like, and that's
very satisfying. Obviously, you progress with each competition
after getting some feedback from the judges. You constantly refine
your approach."
Eyck cooked a starter of Ravioli of oyster with ceviche scallops,
étuvée of leeks and smoked ecune in the final, followed by Roast
Barbary duck with spiced oatmeal crust, cherry centred jus, parsnip
mousse and potato pirogge.
For dessert, he rustled up apple financier with butterscotch cider,
russet apple jelly and cinnamon clotted cream, in the competition
organised by the Craft Guild of Chefs and sponsored by Knorr.
"We've considered adding the courses to the new menu, but it has
already been printed," said Eyck. "We might create a specialised
menu later in the year, although it's possibly a bit too complex
and could scare the diners."
Eyck has been at the hotel's River Restaurant for 15 months
following his move from the Ritz in London. His influences extend
from classic British dishes to more diverse flavours of fusion
cuisine, basing his approach on the philosophy that cooking should
be a "carefully balanced reflection of all things nature has to
offer".
He was born in Erfurt, in the former East Germany, and was a chef
in their army when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989.
"I was there when the wall came down, cooking for the troops
manning the new border crossing," he said. "The wall had divided
Berlin in two for almost 30 years and two days after it came down
they opened the first checkpoints.
"When we arrived at 3am they were relaying the street through the
hole in the wall. By 9am the people were arriving and I can
remember seeing the steam rising from the freshly laid tarmac as
they queued at the crossing. It was one of the highlights of my
life, not in a culinary sense as I was cooking for the troops, but
because it was history in the making."
After the wall came down Eyck travelled to Switzerland to work in a
hotel and then on to London, where he worked in the kitchens of The
Dorchester, Claridge's, The Berkeley and The Savoy.
But he believes the grandeur and exclusivity of some hotels and
restaurants can leave diners feeling tense.
"The Lowry is quite a large restaurant, about 130 covers. We've
tried to create a more informal dining experience as people often
feel uncomfortable when they have five waiters surrounding their
table with full silver service.
"We're not aiming for a Michelin star, we want guests to be able to
relax and that's something you're more likely to achieve in a
smaller restaurant. We have 32 chefs, including myself, and provide
room service as well."
In 2000, the National Chef of the Year title was won by scary
sweary celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey and Eyck says he also has to
raise his voice sometimes to get results. "There are times when we
can have a laugh and other times when we need to get our heads
down. If my team don't know when those times are then I do have to
tell them with a little shouting."
Eyck will hold the title for the next two years and won £6,000
cash, £6,000 of Electrolux catering equipment, a study tour to the
Callebaut chocolate factory in Belgium and a trip to the Champagne
region in France with Pommery Champagne.
He says: "I've retired from competing now. I'm not getting any
younger and it can be quite painful when you don't progress in a
competition, when you think you've reached a level but then get
knocked back.
"I've won about 40 medals over the last 10 years, so I think people
know I'm a decent chef now."
Got an opinion you want to share?| Company | Typical APR |
| Platinum Exclusive Loan | 7.8% |
| Sainsbury's Personal Loan | 8.9% |
| Halifax (Semi-exclusive) | 8.6% |
| Bank of Scotland (Semi-exclusive) | 8.6% |
| Alliance & Leicester | 8.7% |
| Provider | AER* |
|
ICICI BANK HiSAVE Savings Account |
5.50% |
|
SAINSBURYS FINANCE Internet Saver |
3.50% |
|
FIRST DIRECT Everyday e-Saver |
2.75% |
|
ALLIANCE & LEICESTER Online Tracker |
6.00% |
|
ABBEY Instant Access Saver (Special Issue 2) |
6.00% |
|
ING DIRECT Savings Account |
6.00% |
|
ALLIANCE & LEICESTER eSaver - Issue 2 |
6.30% |
|
ABBEY eSaver Direct |
6.00% |
|
POST OFFICE Instant Saver |
3.75% |