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The harbour at Boniacio.
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Island the French keep secret
Nigel Williams14/ 5/2008
FOR once you couldn't accuse the brochure writer of exaggeration. `Stunning' was the word. And as we looked upward from the deck of our boat, we agreed it was, if anything, an understatement. Above us limestone cliffs climbed 200ft from the sea and at their top, tall houses clustered right to the edge, hanging precariously as if they might plunge over at any moment.
Earlier we had joined a pleasure boat from the marina at Bonifacio at Corsica's southernmost tip. There, the town's citadel frowns down on the yachts jostling in the narrow inlet.
In the open sea our boat pitched and heaved in choppy waters and we could scarcely bear to look when our skipper skilfully steered the boat through the mouth of a cave, just squeezing past jagged rocks with the sky above revealed in a hole torn in the cave's roof. These caves are a feature of this rocky coast, which also boasts some secluded coves and clear waters. Bonifacio is said to have been a port of call for Odysseus and you can see how the landscape would inspire myths and legends.
Its fortifications bear testimony to the island's attraction for invaders, most notably the Italian city states of Pisa and Genoa which once ruled it. But the island retains a strongly independent streak, with its own language. It has been part of France for more than 200 years, while its most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte, had his eye on conquering Europe.
It's said the French want to keep this gem - with its rocky mountains, forests and spectacular coastline - to themselves. But the recent arrival of a mass market operator like Thomson suggests they will soon have to share it with many more British `invaders'.
We were based at Santa Giulia, a small beach resort on the south-east coast.
Lagoon
The Castell Verde hotel and apartments are set on a hillside overlooking a lagoon and Santa Giulia bay. Our studio was basic but comfortable with a kitchenette, fridge, double bed with another bunk-style bed for a child and shower and balcony. Most important - because the thermometer managed to hit a mindblowing 42C during our stay - was the air conditioning.
There's a mini supermarket within 10 minutes walk on the way to the beach and several restaurants nearby but the hotel restaurant also offers excellent French food.
The hotel dining area's main selling point is its backdrop of pines, blue sea and rocky hills, so much so that the staff worked out a rota for guests so everyone could take a turn sitting at the front of the balcony for the best view.
The buffet breakfast was simple but tasty: croissants, cake, fresh fruit. Dinner was four courses including cheese. It was all very French with modest but satisfying portions, stylishly presented. Seafood like sea bass and red mullet is a favourite and Corsican specialities like veal, smoked pork and goat's milk cheese also feature. This is washed down with the local white wine - though not cheap at 31 euros a bottle. The Castell Verde, which also has a tennis court and children's playground, is perfect for a laid back holiday. We split our time between the hotel pool and the beach which was a 15-minute walk downhill through pine trees and olive trees.
It has you reaching for the cliches - dazzling white sands and azure clear sea - but it's all true. If you're early you can stake out a place under the pines otherwise it's advisable to hire a lounger and parasol (15 euros a day).
For the active there's plenty on offer - wind-surfing, water skiing and scuba diving. There's also good snorkelling by the rocks. If you want to ease tired limbs afterwards you can also get a massage on the beach from 30 to 40 euros for half an hour.
People-watching
Just lying back people-watching is entertaining too. The parade of the chic and the beautiful is somehow typically French with the attitude and the style to carry off behaviour that would look absurd in others. Such as the bikini-clad woman of a certain age standing waist deep in the sea reading a novel while drawing on a pungent cigarette.
Once settled there's no need to go far for lunch. The nearest beach bar was just yards away and as well as cold drinks and ice creams served tasty hot snacks like smoked ham baguettes. It's a good way to see the sun go down at a bar table with some olives and a beer - the local Pietra brewed with a blend including chestnuts.
For a change of scene we took a local bus to Porto Vecchio, a town with a reputation for liveliness and sophistication where French TV soap stars and celebrities like to relax. We found the marina dull and unattractive but a steep climb took us up to the old Genoese walled town with its stone buildings and cafes, restaurants and smart shops.
In the main square dominated by a twisted spreading tree, a sharp shower had us taking refuge in a restaurant where we sampled the local speciality - wild boar.
We never did venture into the thick forests which dominate the centre of the island where wild boar are still to be found as we were far too busy relaxing on the spectacular coastline.
But at least we sampled a hearty stew made from the wild boar which, tourists are warned, still roam the island. And add to its unique Corsican flavour.
Factfile: Nigel Williams and family were guests of Thomson Holidays which offers seven nights' half-board at four star Castell Verde Hotel from £707 per person (two sharing), including flights ex-Gatwick, accommodation and resort transfers. Ex-Manchester, prices start at £715. The boat trip to the caves at Bonifacio costs 10E per adult and 8E for children. Corsica information from French Government Tourist Office on 09068 244123 (calls charged at 60p per minute) and by email to info.uk@franceguide.com. FGTO website is on uk.franceguide.com. Thomson Holidays reservations: 0870 550 2555 or go to thomson.co.uk
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21/05/2008 at 13:36