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The Maldives

Nicola Dowling
16/ 8/2008

AS I stepped blinking into the sun and marvelling at the gorgeous turquoise lagoon which enveloped me at every turn, it happened.

With a gentle swish they captured my attention. Then the massive shoal of silver-coloured fish - there must have been 100 or more - dived out of the water in front of me, plunged back in, then leapt out again.

After speeding along for about 300 metres, they disappeared as quickly as they had arrived with a final flick of their shimmering tails.

Transfixed, I watched nature's magical synchronised swimming display as I stood on the wooden walkway which led from my luxury stilted water bungalow to the island of Emboodhu Finolhu.

When it was over I looked around, convinced that someone else must have witnessed it, but there wasn't a soul to be seen. This magical private moment with nature was to set the tone for my Maldives trip.

Our task - and we didn't so much choose to accept it, as grab it with both hands - was to sample two ultra luxurious island resorts.

Fantasy

At both, great efforts had been made to be sympathetic to the natural environment. At both, the design, layout and ethos of the staff was to make us feel like we were the only people there, living the fantasy of our own private retreat.

Geared towards those who treasure their privacy but aren't prepared to compromise on quality, the two island idylls of Emboodhu Finolhu and Dhonakulhi have luxury down to a fine art.

Both boast top class restaurants with local as well as international cuisine and wine lists to die for.

Golf buggy drivers and, at Dhonakulhi, butlers, were also on hand to scoop up the bags, help guests into their seats and deliver them from one glorious part of each island to another.

Emboodhu Finolhu's Taj Exotica Resort and Spa was our first stop.

A tiny white sandbank island just over 700 metres long, it is both a honeymooners' dream and haven of relaxation.

Fifteen minutes from Male airport by private speedboat the resort has a glorious Indian spa where the health conscious can partake of Ayurveda treatments and specially created purifying meals.

Organic

Much further north is the larger, but equally as luxurious, Island Hideaway resort on Dhonakulhi.

Owned by Maldivians, it has a less pruned and more organic feel to it than the Taj resort. This is due in large part to the masses of lush green vegetation which stretch across the island and embraces each of the private villas and luxury suites creating a relaxing green cocoon.

It also acts as a natural screen, dividing off sections of private beach which make up an extension to the back gardens of the villas complete with Maldivian lovers' swing beds and private plunge pools.

Those `I'll never forget this', moments are many in the Maldives.

For me they were peering over the edge of the decking at the Meeru bar on Dhonakulhi to watch reef sharks fight over shoals of fish in the floodlit lagoon below, gazing through a glass floor to the water below as I dozed during a fragrant massage at the Taj resort Mandara Spa, and a sunset cruise followed by night-time line fishing trip on a traditional sky blue wooden Maldivian boat.

But the clincher had to be our lazy Robinson Crusoe adventure at Island Hideaway. Clambering on board a speedboat we headed to a crescent-shaped sandbank 200 metres long and around 50 metres across.

Armed with towels and umbrellas, our team of butlers left us lounging in the shade to begin the hard work.

Clear water

From a traditional Maldivian boat which had travelled behind us, they unloaded huge palm fronds, wooden staves, mats and cushions.

Then, before our very eyes, they created a dining canopy complete with a feast of salad, fish and fruits, and table decorations fashioned from huge chunks of coral which had been washed up on the sandbank.

And, after demolishing a light lunch, we spent the afternoon watching the sea froth and nibble away at the sandbank edges, the birds land and take off from the shores and crabs scuttling from the shade of one branch of coral to another.

But, regardless of where you stay and what adventures you embark on, the biggest attraction in the Maldives has got to be the water.

Both the islands we visited have dive centres where the uninitiated can learn and the experienced can hire equipment, a guide and a boat. Island Hideaway has one of the biggest dive schools in the Maldives and 15 dive sites, including a wreck, within easy reach.

But with such clear water, snorkelling can be just as much fun. So when I wasn't playing with baby cranes who came to nibble on my left-overs at breakfast, I was in a relaxing, soft, warm underwater world of my own, marvelling at the vibrancy and variety of nature. Heaven.

FACTFILE:
Prices vary according to the time of year, package and style of accommodation.
For more information about Island Hideaway at Dhonakulki Maldives Spa Resort and Marina, which has a kids club, log on to: island-hideaway.com or call +960 650 1515.
For the Taj Exotica Resort and Spa at Emboohdhu Finolhu log onto: www.tajhotels.com or call +960 6642200.
Further information is also available from tour operator Kuoni in Barton Square, Manchester on 0161 832 0667 or by logging on to: www.kuoni.co.uk
More general information about the Maldives is available at: visitmaldives.com
Emirates fly from Manchester to Male in the Maldives via Dubai. For more information log on to: www.emirates.com.